“He is widely acknowledged as one of the pioneering ‘revivalists’ who brought fresh ideas, international perspective, enthusiasm and conscientiously high-quality winegrowing and winemaking to a region that had become increasingly old-fashioned and was beginning to look as if it might get left behind.” Tamlyn Currin, JancisRobinson.com
Vincent is a first-generation producer – his parents cereal farmers – based in Vouvray since 1999. He’s an important figure in the revival of Vouvray, leading out with organic certified viticulture (EcoCert), working with low sulphur additions, teaching at Lycée Viticole in Amboise and mentoring a host of the young, progressive vignerons coming up in the region.
His first wine came at the tender age of 14, kicking off his lifelong obsession with wine. Following his studies, he completed harvests in Sancerre, Champagne and Alsace. In 1997, he travelled to South Africa, where he met Tania, and worked several harvests in the Swartland.
“The discovery of my spiritual home in South Africa dates back to my first harvest in the Swartland in 1997. Witnessing the tremendous potential of the region inspired me to return and produce a Chenin Blanc, using the same care and precision as my French wines.” Vincent
Today, Vincent and Tania split their time between the estate in Vouvray and the Swartland, where they produce the Terre Brûlée label. Vincent has welcomed a whole host of Cape winemakers out to the domaine, and he works closely with the Chenin Blanc Association.
“More than anyone else, Eben Sadie tells me, it is Vincent who, apart from so personifying the Cape-France connection, has encouraged and helped develop the links between the world’s two great chenin-producing regions – especially through bringing French vignerons here and welcoming their South African counterparts there.” Tim James for WineMag.co.za.
Of course, they are two very different climates. The warm, arid nature of the Swartland and granite lending more stone fruit and salinity as a rule of thumb, whilst the maritime meets continental, cooler Vouvray, and limestone bedrock lean more on orchard fruit, citrus and stony minerality. Each compelling and honouring Vincent’s deep connection to Chenin Blanc.
The intake is a celebration of the versality of Chenin Blanc here in the Vouvray, and without exception these are a brilliant and engaging set of wines from Vincent, which offer excellent value at this quality tier.
As a result, we’ve gone all in across sparkling wine, dry still (‘sec’) old vine Chenin parcels, and a sticky (‘moelleux’) to complete the medley.
Let’s take a look at the wines.
A sparkling vintage Chenin Blanc made in the traditional method, with second fermentation in bottle. I’m a big fan of the sparkling wines under Carême. Rich, clay grown Chenin, balanced by the characterful varietal acidity and zero dosage. It’s expressive and tense, and mighty successful.
Vouvray Plaisir Ancestral 2022
A sparkling vintage Chenin Blanc in the ancestrale or ‘Pet-Nat’ method. from old vines. Gentler bubbles than the Brut Nature, with more of a play on sour/fresh citrus, orchard fruit and a little yeasty character. Exciting, intellectual and raw, whilst avoiding the overt cloud and funk that can let the Pet-Nat category down. This is how I want my Pet-Nat.
There’s an appealing delicacy to the white wines of France in 2023. The domaine bottling from Vincent is bone-dry, an assemblage of different sites making the cut, grown on a combination of flint and clay soils. Signature Loire characters which fan out with air. Minerality, cool pear and nectarine with the sensation of freshness. Terrific.
Le Peu Morier was the first single vineyard bottling of Vincent Carême, from a steep-faced, 70+ year old block of Chenin grown on rich flinty soils and limestone. Vinified and matured in French oak barrels for one year. Typically, a firm and compact wine, but the 2023 release is already elegant and invigorating to drink. Pure orchard fruit and lightly honeyed yellow plum, white flowers and salty stones. Lovely weight and freshness once more.
Vincent’s top bottling, and a vineyard he purchased in 2004 and has slowly replanted and rehabilitated. A walled vineyard on clay and limestone, it’s the most structured and powerful within the line-up. Richly fruited, but with a tangy acid line and pithy drive. Superb.
Not as sweet as a conventional sticky at 50g/l. Packed in a standard 75cl bottle and primed for sharing over a pork roast. From old vines grown on clay and flint, with a limestone subsoil. Vinified and matured for 8 months in oak barrel. Rich, honeyed orchard fruit, with a tangy, gentle spice and savoury edge. Sweet and appetizing at the same time and beautifully executed.
Bag a mixed case and enjoy.
