Somewhere in Philadelphia, amongst the Philly cheesesteak stands and Liberty Bell souvenirs, there’s a barber with two passions in life: cutting hair and vinyl records. Between fades and shaves, the record needle provides the backing track to the score of scissors and clippers. Yet, what sets this barber shop apart from its other hipster counterparts is the drink served to the clientele: Rascallion Wines. This vinyl-sleeved wine is more than just the wine brand that could — it’s the wine brand that did. Cropping up on wine lists throughout America, the United Kingdom and the rest of Europe, Rascallion offers an alternative to snobby wine chat and pretentious pontification — it’s unpretentious, delicious, and, quite simply, priced at a point where you don’t have to face the mental gymnastics of glass vs bottle arithmetic. Or even bottle + bottle arithmetic.
Having reinvented itself post-Covid, the latest iteration of Rascallion is a partnership between Ross Sleet and Wellington Wines. “I’ve always loved Wellington’s juice,” says Ross. “It’s just always knocked me out.” Naturally fruit-forward with a drinkability that belies its intrigue, Wellington offers a nostalgia not dissimilar to Rascallion’s vinyl inspiration. Any music nerd will tell you that vinyl far outstrips any other music format — the sound is warmer, richer, more resonant. And any stats nerd will tell you that since 2019, vinyl has far outstripped any other physical music format. Wine is no different. “You want wine to be vibrant and grippy,” says Ross. “It needs to fascinate you.”
Beyond fascination, Ross has three golden rules when it comes to wine. First, it has to be gluggable. Rascallion isn’t a one-and-done kinda wine. Second, it has to be pleasing. These are integrated wines, balancing fruit, aromatics and just the right acidity to pair perfectly with food. Lastly, it needs to be ambidextrous. Rascallion might be easy-drinking, but it’s by no means simple. These are wines that don’t compromise on quality, equally at home in a barber’s shop as a somm’s fridge.
With only two wines available in the Vinyl Collection, choice is simple. The 33 1/3 RPM (that’s 33 1/3 Revolutions Per Minute for the non-music nerds (a.k.a. me), equalling roughly 22 minutes of sound per record side) is an old vine Chenin Blanc. Coming from two blocks planted in 1979 and 1983, the 33 is textured and complex, oozing peach, pear and pineapple notes. The goal? To become the biggest-selling old vine wine from South Africa. So you know, small fry stuff. The 45 RPM (the record for singles, holding about 8 minutes of music per side (again, me)) is what Ross calls a grandfather-to-grandson blend. Here, the Cinsault-dominant side of the blend gives plushness, allowing for its family grape, Pinotage, to add a natural fruit sweetness, while Grenache, caught in the middle, pushes the flavour forward. The result is a luscious mix of dark fruit and sweet spices, with a mineral core that shines through with an olive briney freshness.
“I want to change the conversation,” says Ross. “You don’t need to know terroir or one hundred French words. Don’t overcomplicate this thing. It’s just wine. Enjoy it.” You heard the man — grab a glass and your favourite album… the bottle should be done before the needle traces its final revolution.
