David vs. Goliath
Are they really that UN-COOL?
Don’t get me wrong, there are oceans of uninspiring wines out there under big brand labels. The minimum requirement, or their biggest obligation to the consumer looking for good quality wines at accessible prices, should be to offer an honest, unpretentious, pleasant drinking experience.
But why are so many big brand, top-notch offerings unable to catch the attention of people posing as industry taste-makers / influencers? Why are these wines less respected, less talked about, and more importantly, less recommended than their boutique peers? WHY are they never found in the glossy, picture-perfect, airbrushed, selfie universe of Instagram? Seemingly a no-brainer to be seen caressing a bottle of wine produced by the small guys. Pushing the right image to garner the respect of the industry and the envy of the casual wino. But large brands DO make exceptional, covet-worthy wines. The reward for those seeking them out can be surprisingly high.
Does Goliath really get it so totally wrong at the high end? Or is it all about image?
It depends on how much passion and pride is allowed into the boardroom. Balance sheets are seldom the preferred domain of a hands-on winemaker. For a reason. Quality fruit comes with a price tag. And some of the big brand winemakers with the right people at the top, those heading the direction of the boardrooms, are allowed the time, space, and an attractive budget to play. The results are often hugely exciting and of great value. Though marred by their link to the big volume wines of the parent brand, affecting pricing and feeding into the belief: Big is boring and small is beautiful. Image plays a big role here. It takes a lot of confidence in your palate and experience to dare admit your preference.
The role of the wine writer. The challenge of separating your ego from your mission.
Wine commentators have a real obligation to the industry to rethink their mission.
Isn’t their role to, through a trained palate, be a filter for the often-confused consumer? To do the groundwork, separating the husks from the wheat, and singling out the most interesting wines of the moment irrespective of clout or likes? Is it naïve of me to think that, as fortunate as we are to work in this industry, we should all accept a higher purpose, a selfless one? The mission to enable people to embark on their own journey, understanding the ladder of quality, and becoming more appreciative and able to identify purity and honesty of expression? Great drinkability at a relevant price tag, or WHY you’d part with a sizeable chunk of your savings for a collector wine.
The confusing topic of age-worthiness vs. good value brands
Often big brand top-end wines don’t age very well – made for instant gratification rather than the cellar. Most quite disappointing when given the opportunity. But nothing could be further from the truth when it comes to my latest two findings. One ten and another eleven-year-old wine from Zonnebloem. Their top wine Lauréat 2011 and 2012.
Combining the beauty of the classics with outstanding value
So, who are you Zonnebloem? What brings you to the party? The sunflower. A lovely name. But hey, don’t forget, you’re Distell. Admit it. A monster? A giant? By South African standards, yes. With a reputation for wine? Hardly. Even though the marketing team tries to convey a different message – it’s missing just that little bit of SOUL South African wines have become known for. But the wine’s just too good… there’s got to be SOMETHING. Zonnebloem wine was first produced in 1936, almost 100 years ago – there’s bound to be a story there.
Halfway into my lengthy discussion with viticulturist Isabel Habet and winemaker Bonny van Niekerk, there’s no doubt of their passion for making sure their Lauréat delivers outstanding quality in its unforced stature and integrity, a real Stellenbosch classic. With the ability to age gracefully.
And what I find equally impressive? How incredibly proud they are of the strong relationships they have with the three key growers from diverse subregions of Stellenbosch. Year in and year out, these growers have been delivering the best expression from their piece of land, most of them 5th generation farmers, loyal to the label since the 1960s, despite the various incarnations of its parent brand. Spectacular. Goosebumps. If a selfie had to be snapped of THESE people, #nofilterneeded guaranteed.
We need more of this. More of this here and abroad. Big brands also have a beautiful story, you don’t have to be small to tell a tale. It’s just difficult to get those glossy selfie influencers to get on board. We need a wake-up call. The Lauréat’s next vintage needs to be posted and tagged and CELEBRATED. It might not be COOL, glossy, or selfie-inducing – but it is GOOD, honest, and historic. Excellent quality at exceptional value, and worthy of your time.
The Art of Blending
Three vineyards. Three highly diverse subregions of Stellenbosch. Five varieties.
I am of the strong opinion that not enough winemakers take blending seriously. A 1% tweak can change the whole personality of a wine before it ends up in bottle. Highlighting the most beautiful features of the different building blocks, through the various stages of its life. And from that perfection to then entrust its evolution to the influences of closure choice and storage. I’m intrigued to get under the skin of a wine, to find its why’s and understand how two vintages of the same wine can be so distinctly different. And in this case, the answer was in the blend. The ART of it.
Lauréat 2011
A stunning vintage, so delightfully balanced with its more prominent Jonkershoek component driving the style into a more red-fruited direction while maintaining some of that spicy, black graphite-like confidence of the densely concentrated vineyard closer to the Somerset West side. The elongated spine which runs through the core of the wine is the proud contribution of the Stellenbosch Kloof. A fragrant herbal lift adding the powerful confidence of a sophisticated classic.
Lauréat 2012
This vintage is led by the bolder, black and inky core of fruit with a graphite-like textural richness originating from the vineyard closer to Somerset West. Less pretty and red-fruited than the 2011 but just as utterly attractive. This is still a youngster, well worth opening now, or to cellar. Either way. Hats off to you, Zonnebloem.
