The latest intake from California sees Radford Dale Imports dialling in on the ‘A’ listers, as we’ve dubbed them. Our experience over these intakes has taught us that the best value to be had in Californian wine is to be found in the exceptional.
They meet the criteria in expressing a keen sense of place and real individuality. They’re a thrill to drink and among the reference points shifting the narrative of California wine.
Among this intake are a number of first generation and progressive producers, a Pacific Swell of talent to have emerged this millennia. Estate pedigree is on show via the history laden Mayacamas in the Napa Valley, and Mount Eden in the Santa Cruz Mountains, whilst Domaine de la Côte have emerged as a modern classic.
Overview
The latest arrivals are led out by an exceptional 2021 vintage, which saw punishingly dry conditions, even weather in the growing season, no shock events or fires. Cooling temperatures at harvest resulted in a relatively stress-free season with long hangtimes for the grapes. The result are balanced wines, with vibrant, precise fruit, refined tannins and lively acids.
“Many wines are spectacularly vivid and beautiful” (Vinous)
It was a superb vintage for Arnot-Roberts. The wines of Duncan Arnot and Nathan Roberts have always shown a vitality and lift, their gentle hand and low interventional methods making for a brilliant marriage for the richness and brightness of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in 2021. Meanwhile, their Syrah bottlings are at a new level in 2021. Look out for the ‘Clary Ranch’ Syrah 2021; a cold, marginal and exposed coastal site that excels in the conditions of 2021.
Jamie Kutch has reined in the use of whole-bunch in 2021 from around 90% to 50% in his Pinot Noir bottlings, yielding a set of sleek and racy expressions. Undoubtedly, one of the smartest Pinot Noir producers in California, whilst his other specialist varietal, Chardonnay, are intense on minerality and restrained in fruit. Altogether, beautifully judged.
Over at Sandhi, we have managed to prize just 12 btls of their coveted ‘Romance’ Chardonnay 2020. This comes in from a small site at their estate, Domaine de la Côte, for which Sashi Moorman and Raj Parr are also partners. A producer at the core of first generation, progressive Californian producers to take off this millennia. As ever, the Domaine de la Côte Pinot Noir bottlings remain elusive, and we’re thrilled to receive a small allocation of the ‘DDLC’ estate bottling from this outstanding property.
Continuing in the Sta. Rita Hills, we’re delighted to announce a first intake from Donnachadh, a young and ambitious estate with Ernst Storm overseeing winemaking, the younger sibling of Hannes Storm here in the Cape. Alongside Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, we had to land some of their estate Gamay. The varietal is a rarity in Santa Barbara and presenting a case for more of the vineyard area. It’s a varietal, at its best, that straddles the flesh of Pinot Noir and flashes of spice akin to a lighter Syrah.
We welcome Piedrasassi, a Syrah led project and feather in the cap for Sashi Moorman of Sandhi and Domaine de la Côte fame, situated in the Santa Maria Valley. There are two wines on offer, including a muscular, black and blue fruited expression from the ‘Bien Nacido Vineyard’ and a deliciously, savoury Santa Barbara County from three distinctive vineyards. The influence of the great names of the Northern Rhone is clear here, with lashings of sun kissed Cali fruit wrapped up in a restrained 12.4% vol, that feels distinctly un-American.
Finally, Cabernet Sauvignon. We’re spoilt for pedigree here. Two vintages from the mountainous vineyard of Mayacamas in Napa, one of the finest and more important Cabernet’s of the region. They have remained traditional and authentic over the decades, eschewing the fashion of overt ripeness and glossy new oak interference so often attributed to the influence of Robert Parker. These are pure and blockbuster in the best sense.
Whist Napa often takes the headlines, do not discount the expressions from above the cloud line in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Mount Eden Vineyards and their sister property, Domaine Eden are among the benchmarks here, with real provenance. Always spectacular and true to place, the value to style relative to comparable peers from the marketing train of Napa has long attracted plaudits for those in the know.
Finally, a first intake of the rare ‘Montecillo Vineyard’ Cabernet by Arnot-Roberts, from a ridge splitting the Napa Valley and Valley of the Moon in Sonoma County. One of the world’s great Cabernet vineyards, planted on its own roots in 1964. Arnot-Roberts can lay claim for being the top exponent of this special Cabernet site.
The Region
The California wine region is vast, spanning some 750km between Santa Barbara in the south and Mendocino County to the north, equivalent to driving from Cape Town to the Namibian border. The region accounts for around 90% of USA wine production.
Lining the coast of California are the cold waters of the Pacific Ocean. As the cold currents meet the shore in summer, they create blankets of cool fog which are sucked inland. The most famous vista to demonstrate this, is that of the Golden Gate Bridge towering out of the fog in summer. The fog brings cool air to moderate climate, and governing vineyard suitability and plantings is the ability of this fog to reach inland pockets.
The wine growing regions of the USA are designated by their American Viticultural Area (AVA). The first AVAs in California were established as recently as 1981, launching with the Santa Maria Valley AVA and Napa Valley AVA. Surprisingly the first designated AVA in the USA came outside of California, with the Augusta AVA in Missouri, in 1980.
Of note, are the Mountain AVAs, such as the Santa Cruz Mountains, one of the first AVAs to be defined by its mountain topography rather than geographic boundaries, largely determined by the all-important fog line.
In Santa Barbara County the mountain ranges run west to east, rather than north to south as typical in North America. These so-called transverse valleys, allow cool fog to channel inland as far as 75km. A cool bed for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay’s showing Riesling like acidity, whilst later varietals such as Syrah further inland are well worth seeking out.
This region shot to fame with the movie Sideways in 2004, which made a star of the Pinot Noir varietal. Around the same time, a group of ambitious upstarts were making a home here and have been gaining a cult following ever since.
Do check out each producer for the full array. For now, here are 6 picks from the California intake.
Kutch
Jamie Kutch started his own label in 2005, with some cash to purchase fruit and a determination to learn. He had chucked in the NASDAQ trading floor in New York at the age of 30, for a happier life as a Cali vintner. Failure was never an option, and his city trading skills paved the way for Jamie to secure grapes from coveted vineyard sites early on.
There’s clearly a strong character here, and a humility to boot. He is always learning, always refining. Far from a second career winemaker and driver of grape prices, Kutch has made strides in a relatively short time, and today represents the upper echelon of California Pinot Noir. He typically picks earlier than his peers, to achieve sleek, racy and sappy Pinot Noir.
In 2019, Jamie took the decision to produce less single vineyard wine – 30% less – reserving the best barrels for the single vineyard wines and adding a regional Sonoma Coast County blend to the range. Whilst this has further restricted availability of the top tier, the resulting line-up has never been better.
In 2021, Kutch has reined in the use of whole-bunch to around 50% (down from 90%).
“It's like a great chef. You see these guys in their sixties or seventies still trying to make a great dish even better. As a winemaker I need to make each vintage count.” Jamie Kutch
Kutch Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2021 – R 1,671
A ltd 10-barrel production, sourced from a parcel at Bohan Ranch (from which the Pinot Noir bottling takes its name), a ridge at 450m above sea level on and within 5km of the ocean. Planted in 1972, this is an old Chardonnay site in the Californian context, and the first in the area. The vineyard is owned by George and Nikki Bohan, whose family have farmed livestock here since 1857. In the 1970s, they took the decision to diversify their farming, as cayotes were decimating their sheep. They dry-farm exclusively and were hit with a severe drought in 1975-1977, forcing the roots to go deep. Today, the Bohan’s have amassed a waiting list for their grapes. Kutch is fortunate to receive both their Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from original cuttings of 1974.
“Wonderfully energetic bright nose with a briny edge to the pineapple, melon and apple notes. The palate has some richness of fruit, but also nice tension. Ripe pear and apple here, with some herbal twist (rosemary? sage?) and then some lively acidity. Lovely depth here, with some vitality.“ Jamie Goode, Wine Anorak
Sandhi
Sandhi is a small production winery focused on sourcing prime vineyard parcels of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir dotted around Santa Barbara County, predominantly in the Sta. Rita Hills.
The label was established in 2010 by charismatic duo Raj Parr, a celebrated sommelier and wine commentator/writer, and Sashi Moorman, a compelling (then) up and coming winemaker who was motivated to go it his own and produce the style of wine he likes to drink.
Parr and Moorman are also partners in Domaine de la Côte, their own vineyard holdings of predominantly Pinot Noir which can also contribute fruit to the Sandhi range. In addition, Sashi has a Syrah focused venture under the Piedrasassi label, whilst Raj has become a farmer in his own right at Phelan Farm, a label focused on his love for varietals native to the Jura region in France.
The name, Sandhi, represents a union essential to the production of wine; the collaboration between man, earth, and vine. And in respect of progressive Californian wine this side of the millennia, Sandhi rank among the most culturally important. By all accounts, warm, characterful and generous, their influence is felt upon a generation, in identifying growers and sites of merit, and for bringing a voice for what Californian wine could and should represent.
Sandhi Sta. Rita Hills ‘Sanford & Benedict’ Chardonnay 2021 - R 1,862
Richard Sanford and Michael Benedict planted their vineyard in 1971, with a gung ho attitude, admittedly little viticultural experience, and to a whole host of varietals. There were no vineyards in the marginal Sta. Rita Hills at the time, and the locals thought they were a little mad for doing so. Indeed, most of the varietals planted failed to deliver, but then there was the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
“Literal fruit salad experiments like Sanford & Benedict’s were de rigueur throughout California – no one really knew what they were doing, so why not throw everything at the wall to see what sticks – and yielded wines ranging from inspirational to inedible. But in a stroke of genius, sheer luck or some combination of the two, the great grapes of Burgundy, not yet in vogue in 1971, were also planted at Sanford & Benedict. Within five years the site would earn recognition for its fine Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Few vineyards here have held such consistent acclaim since.” Rajat Parr, Sandhi
Sampling the wines of the era, the Sanford & Benedict vineyard played a pivotal role in convincing Raj Parr to make the move to Santa Barbara.
“Each of Sandhi's Santa Rita Hill Chardonnays exhibits a thrilling verve and intensity. However, the Sanford & Benedict bottling, sourced from a vineyard planted in 1971 at a lower elevation than the Patterson, shows an openness of fruit and delightfully floral perfume that lend hedonism and immediacy. Bright-eyed and delightfully steely, it's a finely focused wine that's enjoyable now but likely to mature well.” 94 pts, Decanter
Sandhi Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir 2021 - R 1,398
As with its’ Chardonnay sibling, the Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir sees a core component from young vines at Domaine de la Côte, alongside 40+ year old vines of Sanford & Benedict. This is top drawer in 2021, with lifted aromatics and driving red Pinot fruit, whilst retaining a coolness of expression, tension and a lovely sapidity on the finish. Characterful and confident.
“The 2021 Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills has a medium ruby color and pretty scents of cinnamon stick, aniseed, iron, underbrush and charcuterie with a core of red cherries and cranberries. Medium-bodied yet very concentrated, it has a powdery frame, sparks of refreshing acidity and a very long, graphite-driven finish. Precise and detailed, it deserves to spend another 2-3 years in bottle.” Wine Advocate
Arnot-Roberts
One of California’s most exciting small wineries, Arnot-Roberts was founded in 2001 by childhood friends Duncan Arnot Meyers and Nathan Lee Roberts. They’ve amassed an enviable network of top growers to work with, distinctive vineyard sites across the Napa Valley, Sonoma Coast, Santa Cruz Mountains and Sta. Rita Hills from which they source their fruit. Small batch and highly limited, pre-release allocations are well managed and highly sought after.
Winemaking is hands off, with the quality of site allowed to shine. There’s a stylistic thread across the range, displaying raw and inviting varietal character.
Arnot-Roberts Sonoma Coast Syrah 2021 – R 1,553
The reds of California are singing in the 2021 vintage, and the Syrah’s under Arnot-Roberts play testament to this, after a series of challenging crops. The Sonoma Coast bottling is sourced from three distinctive vineyards of the coast. The Solas Vineyard at the edge of the Russian River Valley brings the warmth of fruit and backbone. Baker Lane receives regular fog and cool breezes, resulting in tiny, concentrated black berries and palate staining stature, whilst the Que vineyard (“que sera, sera”) is a ‘true gem’ at elevation and exposed to the Pacific, yielding floral and oceanic Syrah.
At fermentation, 100% of the stems are included. Dark fruited, exotic and heady, yet the most friendly of the Arnot-Roberts Syrah bottlings. There’s a lot crammed into to the wines restrained 12.5% vol frame.
“The 2021 Syrah (Sonoma Coast) is fabulous. Dark, rich and resonant, the 2021 offers up an exotic mix of red/purplish fruit, lavender and dried flowers. Today the fruit is quite forward. I imagine Syrah aromatics will develop more fully with time in the bottle. Readers will find a Syrah of real power and substance. The 2021 is a blend from Solas, Baker Lane and Que Syrah, done with 100% stems. I loved it.” Vinous
Mount Eden Vineyards
Mount Eden has the feel of a viticultural island, given their perch high up in the Santa Cruz Mountains. The cloud of fog, when present, seemingly lapping at its shores. It’s unusual to see Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon thriving in the same vicinity, but alas, here it is, alongside Eden’s third specialist varietal, Chardonnay. Founded in 1945 by Martin Ray, a viticultural legend in these parts, it is among the eldest producing boutique estates in California, boasting the longest lineage of estate produced wines.
In 2007, Mount Eden purchased the vineyards that would become Domaine Eden. The two properties are less than 2km apart (albeit a far longer drive on winding mountain roads) but on different mountaintops, with differing soils. Mount Eden’s thin soils are built on shale and rocks, that bring a little austerity to the wines, whilst the vines at Domaine Eden sit on textured loamy soils, the wines driven by fruit.
Mount Eden Vineyards Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 – R 3,546
Cabernet Sauvignon has a rich history in the Santa Cruz Mountains, as far back as the 1890s, with select cuttings brought over from Chateaux Margaux of Bordeaux and planted at a farm called La Questa. In the 1940s, Santa Cruz pioneer Martin Ray would, in turn, establish the first Cabernet vineyards at Mount Eden with cuttings from this farm. These Cabernet vineyards here sit at altitude, around 600m above sea level and overlooking Silicon Valley. They are planted on thin soils, yielding just 1 or 2 tonnes per hectare. The farming and property have been managed by Jeffrey and Ellie Patterson since the 1980s, who have steered the wines to prominence.
It is a Cabernet region still overshadowed by the marketing grunt and comparable accessibility of the Napa Valley, and the heady prices wines they command. A benchmark for the region, Mount Eden represents the insider tip, producing varietal Cabernet both expansive and transparent.
“A brilliant, youthful, unevolved wine that will give Ridge's Monte Bello a run for its money, the 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon reveals a deep ruby/purple hue to go with a wonderful perfume of blackcurrants, blueberries, lead pencil, vanilla bean, exotic flowers, tobacco, and bouquet garni. Needing plenty of air to show at its best, it's medium to full-bodied on the palate and has a concentrated, powerful style, ripe tannins, flawless balance, and a great finish.” 97+pts, Jeb Dunnuck, Decanter
Mayacamas Vineyards
Mayacamas (loosely translating to ‘howling mountain lions’ from the indigenous Wappo language) is a remote estate, nestled high up in Mount Veeder, a sub-appellation of the Napa Valley AVA. It was purchased in 1889 by John Henry Fisher, who established the winery still in use today.
Its modern history begins in the 1940s when it was purchased by the Taylor family, who operated the vineyard until 1968 when it was sold to Bob Travers, who was the winemaker and owner until 2013. It was Travers who created the style that Mayacamas is recognized for, including the 1971 Cabernet Sauvignon that was included in the famed Judgement of Paris tasting in 1976. Today, it is run by the Schottenstein family with winemaker Braiden Albrecht.
The ethos at Mayacamas has stayed remarkably consistent, simple and centred around authenticity and tradition. Avoiding fashions, the use of new oak or picking overtly ripe for power and flavour. Occasional verticals spanning decades are both the stuff of envy and enthusiastically received. At the helm, are dense, yet inviting and tense expressions of Cabernet that rank among the finest drinking experiences in the world of wine.
Mayacamas Mt. Veeder Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 – R 5,875
The Mayacamas Cabernet Sauvignon comes in from eleven estate vineyards, and one grower site. The wine is matured in a combination of neutral Foudre, 500l puncheon and 225l neutral French barrels. No makeup here, just the sense you are drinking Cabernet of a place.
"The 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon marks a return to a more elegant, polished style following the two powerhouses that are the 2017 and 2018. Silky, aromatic and beautifully perfumed, the 2019 is majestic from the very first taste. There is plenty of depth and structure, as well as the balance to support decades of very fine drinking. Blood orange, crushed raspberry, mint and exotic spice nuances linger. Even in the early going, the 2019 is shaping up to be majestic." 96-99pts, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
