Chris Mullineux says he recalls the exact moment he fell in love with Syrah. One morning at the De Trafford cellar, while working as an intern. He says he remembers walking into the cellar and being assaulted by a perfume - it was peppery, spicy, floral, but deeper, with an almost meaty aromatic. He didn’t know what it was, but doing a punch-down later that same morning on a tank of Syrah, he discovered the source of the arresting aroma. And THAT, that was the moment he fell in love. He smelt it again while working a harvest in Côte Rôtie. I think, throughout the years, the memory of that FIRST time, so bathed in the glow of first discovery and the magic of the De Trafford cellar (complete conjecture on my part, but I’ve been in that cellar at the heart of the Helderberg, and there’s magic there) enamoured him of the grape forever.
Demanding to be Made
The Mullineuxs have since gone on to produce pivotal Swartland Syrahs. Chris says they only ever intended to make ONE Syrah, but using six to seven different vineyard parcels, were struck by the intense difference between the wines produced from either, Schist, Granite, or Iron soils, having been treated exactly the same in the cellar. In a sense, these expressions HAD to be bottled separately, demanding to be made. Since then, Syrah’s unique ability to adapt and thrive in the various regions and soils of the Cape has come to be celebrated by both winemakers and industry critics worldwide. In Tim Atkin’s 2021 South Africa Report, one of his top ten findings was that Syrah had become the Cape’s most exciting grape due to its ability to adapt. And Chris says, winemakers, having gained confidence in allowing it to reflect its terroir with minimal intervention in the cellar. While some varieties prefer a specific set of climatic and geographic influences, Syrah has become an interesting vessel in translating the unique diversity of the Cape Winelands. The Mullineux Syrahs proves the layers of diversity even WITHIN just one region. Their own individuality helping to define and understand our terroir.
Schist
It’s always dangerous asking winemakers if they have a favourite wine, like asking if they have a favourite child. However, Chris says he’s not ashamed to admit that the Schist Syrah remains his favourite, coming from their home farm Roundstone, where they live and raise their children. A site one could say most imbued with their energy and farmed to an infinite level. Allowing them to practice the various techniques they use to grow old vines based on principles of sustainability and biodynamics. While they never bottle a wine they don’t think is amazing, Chris says he feels the Schist Syrah has everything, from perfume, power, structure, and freshness, and is a true representation of all the virtues of Swartland Syrah. While there isn’t much old vine Syrah in South Africa, the vigour of the variety is so well tempered by the poor soils of the Swartland that one doesn't notice an absence in quality from fruit produced by younger vines. Though if anyone is going to be giving us old vine Syrah in the future, it will be the Mullineuxs. One can be assured a beautiful interpretation of the mature vines.
Syrah/Shiraz
While Syrah as an expression remains firmly rooted in the style of the Northern Rhône, with more restraint and perfume than its hotter sister Shiraz, who tends to be bolder, and more fruit forward. Chris says it's not an oxymoron to make Syrah in the Swartland. When comparing the Swartland to international wine regions, it ticks a lot of the Northern Rhône boxes, and in the end, the terroir dictates the style - as with all Mullineux wines. While Shiraz as a style remains a firm South African favourite, the fact that such beautiful Syrah-style wines are also made here, is merely an indicator (once again) of the diversity inherent to our Winelands. BOTH styles attain international acclaim year on year and are representative of the industry's progress in decoding our terroir.
A Snapshot
In celebration of Shiraz Day, we invite you to embrace its many expressions. Chief among them is a snapshot of the Mullineuxs' winning study in Swartland Syrah, with Chris's favourite Schist Syrah and their Benchmark, Signature Syrah offering a holistic expression of the region, with just a touch of Roundstone Olive Oil for your table. The perfect Syrah-inspired gift this winter. Create your own Syrah memory.
