Hello readers,
I feel like Cabernet Franc is having a moment here in the Cape. The varietal represents a little under 1% of the Cape vineyard, but much of what is being produced as a single varietal is increasingly excellent.
The Raats ‘Vlag’ single vineyard release was an eye opener in 2024 and a great addition to the range. The Hogan ‘Mirror for the Sun’, another discovery (for me at least) in 2024, beautifully perfumed and delicate. Damascene always impeccable, whilst Van Loggerenberg continues to knock it out of the park with vibrant and engaging expressions.
Cabernet Franc was the big surprise and a cause for real excitement for our team at Radford Dale, with the maiden release from the organic estate in Elgin. The varietal is extremely scarce up in this cool valley, but you can expect our team to be adding to the 0.4ha plot.
What all these wines present is an intent by the producer to showcase the purity of Cabernet Franc, avoiding glossy new oak and overt ripeness, in favour of neutral maturation vessels and sensitive extraction measures.
Of course, Elgin is cool by virtue of location, whilst each of the Stellenbosch bottlings mentioned, benefit from the air conditioning off False Bay. Cool conditions and hangtime are vital for slower sugar accumulation in the grapes, to avoid excessive alcohol, whilst allowing the skins of Cabernet Franc to develop fully and avoid pyrazines and underdeveloped tannins that can plague the varietal.
In the wines and approach, you could certainly draw comparisons to the Loire and the top exponents here of Cabernet Franc. Certainly, we at Radford Dale take a cue from Thierry Germain at Domaine des Roches Neuves. Van Loggerenberg too.
“I think for me, a dead given on your portfolio is Thierry Germain, especially one of my favourite Cabernet Francs in the world, ‘Les Memoires’. I think it’s just the rawness of the wine, the age of the vineyards. That is one of the wines that I try, that inspires to make ‘Breton’ Cabernet Franc.”
Domaine des Roches Neuves was founded in the early 90s by Thierry Germain. Based in Saumur-Champigny, they’re carving out benchmark Cabernet Franc.
“… the resulting wines are some of the best in the region: charming, balanced and delicately poised. But that should be expected from this domaine.” Vinous
Visiting in 2024, there was a sense of reflection and fulfilment on show from Thierry. His son Louis is gradually taking over the reins, and following 30 years of uncompromising and pioneering biodynamic viticulture, he is now confident they both understand the practices and are seeing the results in their wines. As Thierry energetically darts around the deep, dimly lit tuffeau tunnels, pouring samples from barrel and foudre, it’s difficult not to be convinced by their methodology.
Thierry Germain may be of Bordeaux lineage, but there is a strong Burgundian sensibility here. They focus on two varietals, and tend to around 60 plots of vineyards (predominantly Cab Franc, plus a little Chenin Blanc) spread across a mosaic of terroirs in the appellation. Sites of individual merit are vinified and bottled separately
Thierry likes to release the wines young. To miss them in youth would be akin to missing the first years of a newborn child’s life, he reckons. But there is also a proven longevity in the wines, achieved through balance rather than force and the promise of integration.
It’s clear from our tasting and notes elsewhere, that Thierry enjoys a party trick. We note with surprise, the dates of opening scribbled onto the sample bottles. Two weeks here, a month there. They’re remarkably fresh
“Wines with life, don’t oxidise.” beams Thierry.
Notes on the available wines below. Enjoy!
Saumur-Champigny L’Insolite 2022 – R954
“The Unusual,” a bone-dry Saumur Blanc from a gnarly 90-year-old vineyard of Chenin Blanc, on silex-rich soils over a bedrock of limestone. Multiple picks bring a combination of richness and vitality, bristling in fresh orchard fruits, florals, spring meadow, and salty rocks. So much interest and elegance, unmistakably Loire. Drink 2025–2035.
Saumur-Champigny Clos Romans 2021 – R2,058
From a Chenin Blanc vineyard within a clos (walled) site dating back to the 11th century. Clay, sandy soils over limestone. Thierry replants at high density here, using cuttings from top-performing vines on the site (massale selection). The wine is matured in large, old Stockinger foudre. Compared to the elegance of L’Insolite, the Clos Romans site yields a Chenin of real intensity and power – one of the world’s great Chenins. Drink 2025–2045.
Saumur-Champigny Cuvée Domaine 2022 – R610
The prettiest of the Cabernet Franc bottlings, blended from an array of domaine parcels, and quite brilliant in the conditions of 2022. Inviting neon-plum colour at the core, scents of fresh black and red berries and florals, while the palate is clean and invigorating, with just a nip of savoury grip on the finish. A great advert for cooler-climate Cabernet Franc – I wish more from the Loire looked like this. Quite irresistible today. Drink to 2030.
Saumur-Champigny La Marginale 2021 – R1,298, 2019 – R878
Made only in vintages where balance can be achieved from this marginal site – a bowl-like vineyard behind the village of Chaintres, on clay and limestone, with a warm, southerly exposure that fights for finesse as a counterpoint.
(2021) A cooler vintage displaying classic characteristics of the year: a lighter, more translucent colour, setting it apart from the fuller 2020 and 2022 wines. Open and fragrant, led by brambly red berries and graphite. A firm tannin structure is kept in check by a sleek fruit coating—such a Germain trademark. “Simply delicious” (Vinous) sums it up nicely. Drink 2025–2033.
(2019) A little hedonistic in aroma, with crushed black and red fruits, leaf, earth, and violets. Silky and contoured on the palate. A great buy, with plenty left in the tank. Drink 2025–2035.
Saumur-Champigny Les Mémoires 2020 – R1,089
(2021 sold out) From one of the great vineyards of Cabernet Franc, planted in 1904 on crumbly flint and limestone. Sleek old-vine concentration showing primary black cherries, red fruit, a little anise, and florals. Inviting today, with a lovely backbone and freshness on the finish. Reminds us of a good Chambolle-Musigny. Drink 2025–2040.
