The title of this feature is a homage back to 2001 and the breakout album ‘Your New Favourite Band’ by The Hives, a garage rock band from Sweden. This was an exciting time for me and a worrying one for my parents. I was adamant that I would be living abroad, seeking new cultures and adventure. I set off from our home in the east of England, arriving three and a half hours later at the University of Wales, Swansea.
The Hives joined me on that drive. They had a swagger about them, massive energy, and tonnes of likeability. Sure, some felt ripped off that the CD was less than 30 minutes long, but The Strokes had been playing that trick for several years already. The Hives knew they had arrived with this release, and the UK went nuts for it.
Beaujolais could be your favourite new wine. It's a brilliant session wine in youth and if it’s the right Cru Beaujolais it has the pedigree to cellar. It is well suited to most of the year here in SA, and best served a little chilled. From the lithe, red-fruited, and scented wines of crus like Brouilly and Chiroubles, to the structured, dark cherry fruited, allspice bottlings of the Moulin-à-Vent cru. All this diversity comes from the Gamay variety manifesting itself according to the unique pockets it grows on.
Unusually for red wine, good Beaujolais will invigorate the palate rather than fatigue it. This makes it a favourite among the international sommelier set; a brilliant wine to serve alongside the main dish in a multi-course menu and to keep diners engaged.
My first memorable encounter with Cru Beaujolais came in late 2017. I was interviewing with Alex Dale at the canteen, the 96 Winery Road restaurant in Stellenbosch. Alex was waiting with a bottle of Morgon Côte du Py by Jean Foillard, a wine I would soon learn was a signifier of team celebrations and good times.
Origins & Banishment
The Beaujolais region lies between Burgundy to the north (of which it is administratively considered a part of), and the Rhône to the south and east, with which it shares more climatically. As is often the case, the vineyards were planted near a trading route or port, in this instance by the Romans who used the Soâne river valley for transport.
Gamay was once well planted in Burgundy, only to be ousted in the late 14th century by the then Duke of Burgundy, Philippe the Bold. He famously declared the variety “very bad & disloyal”, decreeing that it should make way for the more noble cousin, Pinot Noir.
Gamay moved south, finding a home in Beaujolais, where on granite formed hillsides it flourished.
The Issue with Nouveau
Centuries later, in the 1970s and 80s, the region would take a prolonged reputational battering from the concept of Beaujolais Nouveau, a November festival to mark the release of inexpensive, bubble gum fruited and simple wines. Nouveau sees Gamay rushed through ferment and bottled quickly for the consumer to consume several weeks later. It was a global phenomenon and once the US market caught on, demand was insatiable. Wines had to ferment, bottle and ship stateside in time for Thanksgiving.
As Sonja Geoffrey at Chateau Thivin points out, “People didn’t know there was anything beyond Nouveau.”
Some producers even planted new versions of Gamay to achieve higher yields at the expense of quality. Wines were increasingly rushed, with quality waning further and to a point where the consumer would eventually push back on Nouveau. The damage had been done and critics and collectors alike stayed away…
The Gang of Four
Thankfully the 1980s also brought about the so-called ‘Gang of Four’. Not the shootin’ tootin’ saloon bar kind, but a group of vignerons eschewing Nouveau and with the simple aim of farming better and bottling the top Beaujolais sites. The foundations of great terroir and mature vineyards were all there to make great wine.
They would become the standard-bearers for Beaujolais, among which was Jean Foillard whose wines Radford Dale has imported for a decade. For many, this group sparked the modern-day natural wine-making movement.
A little help from the Lehman Brothers
When the global financial crisis of 2008 hit, it marked a change of fortune for Cru Beaujolais. Despite the credit crunch, Burgundy prices had continued to soar upwards.
“.. people were looking for more inexpensive alternatives to Burgundy”, says Rajat Parr, sommelier turned wine producer at Sandhi wines, California. “Beaujolais wines were mostly served at bistros and casual restaurants in Paris. Now, it’s served at most of the top restaurants in the world.”
Beaujolais on a Roll
More recently, Beaujolais has been on a roll with plenty of contributing factors:
Consistency: Vintages are on an unprecedented run of consecutively good to high quality, since 2014.
The New Generation: In parallel to a growing appreciation for transparent, refreshing reds, an assured generation of vigneron has been coming through at a time when the style of their wine is in high demand. A stark contrast to the big, sweet oaked wines dominating the drinking trends in the nineties and early noughties.
Heritage:
Local: The Beaujolais selections at Radford Dale focus on boutique producers based in the Beaujolais region, and typically within their specialist cru.
Generations of know-how: The domaines are typically family-owned and have the benefit of multiple generations overseeing the land.
Old vines: These wines are typically produced from Gamay vineyards of 40+ years of age. The oldest sites to feature in the line-up were planted between 80-100 years ago.
Sustainable Farming: Organic or biodynamic farming is increasingly practiced, as demonstrated in the majority of domaines mentioned below. Vinification is typically low intervention and traditional - whole clusters, fermentation with indigenous yeasts in neutral oak or alternative vessels, with low sulphur additions, no fining or filtration.
Great Value: The top examples of Beaujolais offer up Burgundy-like character and great relative value. For the moment at least.
The Crus of Beaujolais
The best sites in Beaujolais sit on the hills to the north, typically formed of granite. In the mix, however, are schist soils on occasion, or prehistoric volcanic rock (the extinct volcano of Mont Brouilly, and Côte dy Py slope of Morgon).
The wines of this feature come in from six of the ten Beaujolais crus:
Chiroubles. Considered the ‘gateway’ to cru level Beaujolais, and a great place to start if you’re well versed in villages level wine. It’s the highest hill and the vineyards at elevation are some of the last to ripen in Beaujolais. Red fruited to the core and fresh.
Brouilly. The largest cru on the outer, lower slopes of Mont Brouilly. Within the ring of the Brouilly cru, lies the higher, more steeply raised Côte de Brouilly sites. They present red and dark fruit, more concentration and plenty of potential for cellaring.
Fleurie. As the name suggests, this cru often has a floral quality to the wine. There are plenty of nooks and crannies in the valleys of Fleurie, and the wines are perhaps the most diverse. In the case of Domaine des Marrans and de La Madone, these take on the highest and steepest slopes, and there is a brilliant Northern Rhône-Esque pepperiness and smoky minerality to these bottlings. A popular cru.
Morgon. There are different slopes to this cru, which if bottled individually will be depicted on the label. For example, Côte du Py and the rare Corcellete, as bottled by Jean Foillard.
Moulin-à-Vent. Often cited as the most Burgundian of the Beaujolais crus, the domaines certainly champion themselves as the finest cru of Beaujolais. The wines from here often present intense black cherry fruit, licorice, and allspice. Brooding but still with Gamay drinkability. It’s the only cru to not take its name from the locale, but instead a historic windmill atop the hill.
A few suggestions to get you started...
Domaine des Nugues Beaujolais Villages Rouge 2019 – R 265
It stands to reason that the village-designated vineyards dotted around the crus of the north will be home to the top village wines. This bottling is one such example, with the Domaine vineyards bordering the crus of Fleurie, Morgon, and Moulin-à-Vent. It was a characterful village bottling in 2018, but the 2019 has more tension, drive, and over-delivers at this price point.
Dominique Piron, Beaujolais Villages 2020 - R 282
If you are looking to explore Beaujolais and would like the consistency of vigneron to help identify the nuances, then the wines of Dominique Piron are a great option. Over the years he has amassed an enviable selection of cru and village vineyards, for which the pricing always shows humility. He’s a popular and important figure in Beaujolais, having recently stepped down as President for Inter Beaujolais, the trade body for the region’s producers. It’s another top village expression.
"Graphite and pomegranate and wild night-jasmine, bosky fragrance. Particularly fine tannin texture, like a flute, whittled out of olive wood and polished to a silky sheen. The fruit, dark red and sculpted, has startling purity for a Beaujolais-Villages. Clean, long, evening-breeze-fresh, graphite-lined finish. Very good value. 2021-2024" JancisRobinson.com, Aug '21
Domaine de la Grosse Pierre, Chiroubles ‘La Grosse Pierre’ 2019 – R 331
Pauline Passot hit the ground running with her maiden vintage release of 2018 at Domaine de La Grosse Pierre. She is already touted as one of the most exciting young vignerons in the Beaujolais region.
"A cuvée amounting to some 20,000 bottles produced from four hectares of the Domaine's easterly exposed holdings, the 2019 Chiroubles La Grosse Pierre bursts with aromas of red berries, rose petals, and spices. Medium-bodied, fine-boned and lively, with powdery tannins and a vibrant core of fruit, it concludes with a saline finish. 2021-2027" Wine Advocate, Aug '21, 92pts
Alex Foillard, Brouilly 2019 – R 582
The newest arrival to our shores and sitting comfortably alongside a very strong line-up of Brouilly’s from Château de la Chaize and Château Thivin. Alex is the son of ‘Gang of Four’ member and Bojo icon Jean Foillard but has successfully carved out a thrilling set of wines and style all his own. Whilst Jean specialises in Morgon, Alex has managed to acquire sites in Brouilly, with fruit vinified back at the Domaine in Morgon.
"Glistening ruby. Primary red and blue fruits and succulent flowers on the mineral- and spice-accented nose. Bright, spicy, and energetic on the palate, offering juicy raspberry, boysenberry, and spice cake flavors that show fine clarity and deepen slowly with air. Delivers seamless texture and bright, minerally cut on the gently tannic finish, which displays strong tenacity and repeating floral and mineral notes. Drink 2023-2031" Vinous, Aug '21, 93 pts
Château Thivin, Cote de Brouilly, ‘Les Griottes de Bruhlie’ 2020 – R 477
Kicking off in 1887, with six generations under tenure with the Geoffray family, Thivin is the oldest producing wine estate on Mont Brouilly. The wines are coveted the world over and we’re thrilled to have landed a small allocation for South Africa. The wines of Thivin hit the sweet spot for presenting a wide range of Gamay attributes, whilst retaining a winning drinkability. It’s a top-case purchase and a wine to revisit again and again over the next decade-plus.
Barrel sample. "Taken from foudre, the 2020 Côte de Brouilly Les Griottes de Brulhier, from the south part of the hill, has precocious black cherries and blueberry fruit bursting from the glass, well defined and very pure. The palate is smooth with plush tannins, fine acidity, and a lovely citric edge toward the finish that gives it energy. Great potential. 2024-2040" Neal Martin, Vinous, Aug '21, 91-93 pts
Château Thivin, Beaujolais Blanc, Clos de Rochbonne 2019 – R 444
We have also been fortunate enough to secure a rare expression of Beaujolais Blanc (Chardonnay) from Thivin. Chardonnay accounts for just 2% of vineyard plantings in Beaujolais and it often finds a home in bottlings of Bourgogne or in Crémant de Bourgogne (crémant the name given to sparkling wine, not from the Champagne region).
This site is a ‘clos’ or walled vineyard, erected in the 16th century.
Finally, check out the Brouilly and Cote de Brouilly bottlings of Chateau de la Chaize on Port 2 Port. An important and historic estate, with an imposing Chateau sitting centre stage. The property changed hands in 2014 and is undergoing a highly ambitious environmental project in pursuit of zero waste.
Jane Eyre, Fleurie 2018 – R 679
In my first contributor piece for Port 2 Port, I highlighted the wines of Jane Eyre in Burgundy, who had achieved the incredible feat of ‘Negociant of the Year’ at the 2021 Grand Prix La Revue de France. As Jane’s reputation grew, clients were asking if she would produce a Bourgogne Pinot Noir, so offering an entry-level addition to her range of Pinot.
It is telling that Jane opted not to do so, reasoning that for around the same cost, she could rather source top-notch, cru Beaujolais fruit. She ended up in Fleurie, a cru she felt suited the style of wine she was producing. Successfully approaching the highest sites of La Madone for fruit, she was also introduced to a neighbouring 80-year-old parcel for this Fleurie expression, with views of Mont Blanc in the distance.
Domaine des Marrans, Fleurie 2019 – R 360
Fleurie-based Domaine des Marrans dates back as recently as 1970, working with around 20ha at elevation. Traditional, low intervention winemaking, this is a vibrant, gorgeously scented expression that reminds me of a lithe, Northern Rhône Syrah.
"From a five-hectare parcel around the domaine, the 2019 Fleurie Les Marrans is superb, mingling notes of raspberries, cherries and plums with hints of rose petals and orange rind in an inviting bouquet. Medium to full-bodied, layered and fleshy, with fine depth at the core, succulent acids and a sensual, charming profile, it will offer a broad drinking window. 2021-2029" Wine Advocate, Aug '21, 93pts
Domaine Jean Foillard, Morgon Cuvée Corcelette 2018
The Foillard name is synonymous with Beaujolais, and the pinnacle for many. If the Cote du Py bottling is the powerhouse, the more limited Corcelette bottling from Foillard is among the most perfumed and elegant expressions around.
“The ‘whole cluster, carbonic maceration, no added yeast, no new oak, minimal sulfur, and no fining or filtration’ drill is old news by now, but it’s rare that anybody else’s results match Foillard’s.” Vinous.com
“A highly perfumed bouquet evokes ripe red and blue fruits, potpourri, earth, and smoky minerals. Supple, deeply concentrated, and alluringly sweet, offering juicy, spice-kissed raspberry, boysenberry, and floral pastille flavors that slowly turn livelier with air. Delivers an appealing blend of depth and energy and closes with superb clarity and strong persistence, leaving notes of juicy red berries and candied violet behind. 2024-2034”. Vinous, 93 pts.
Domaine Paul Janin et Fils, Moulin-à-Vent Heritage 2018 – R 577
There’s a seductiveness to the dark fruited, almost sweet, pipe tobacco character of the Moulin-a-Vent wines I’ve tried to date, at least in the riper vintages of 2018 and 2019. Fleshier expressions of the Gamay varietal, wrapped in a firm tannin structure and the promise to age well. As a result, it’s easy to see why the locals tout their cru as the noblest in Beaujolais. It’s great to see Gamay able to take this form, and I enjoy this wine each visit.
This ‘Heritage’ bottling comes in from gnarly goblet (bush) vines between 80 and 100 years of age. The scene is set for a braai and a bottle of this on a cool, clear evening somewhere in the Cederberg range.
“Aromas of cherries, blackberries, spices, and rose petals introduce the 2018 Moulin-a-Vent Heritage, a medium to full-bodied, rich, and fleshy wine that’s succulent and enveloping, with ripe tannins and a gourmand core of fruit.” 2020-2033, Wine Advocate, 91+pts
Picture Captions: Moulin-à-Vent (windmill); A Map of Beaujolais; https://www.domainedelagrossepierre.fr/ Pauline Passot took over from her parents at Domaine de la Grosse Pierre in the cru of Chiroubles, to immediate critical acclaim in her first releases of 2018; Château Thivin; The stellar Morgon “Côte dy Py” bottling by Jean Foillard; Jane Eyre; The Hives Cover; Mature vines in Beaujolais.
