St Aubin Clos de la Chatenière 1er Cru

The 2019 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière opens in the glass with scents of pear, gunflint, musk, melon, wheat, toast, wet stones and freshly baked bread. Medium to full-bodied ample but controlled its concentrated core of fruit is underpinned by lively acids and elegantly chalky structure. This year as a flurry of early December snow fell outside Olivier Lamy opted to show his bottled 2019s rather than his 2020s from barrel - a choice I warmly endorse as wines evolve slowly in these cold cellars where larger vessels predominate and nothing is done to accelerate the maturation process.